Basic Sit-Down
"Sit-downs are the easiest wheelies to do, but the hardest to explain. There are so many different ways to wheelie a sportbike, and some methods work better than others depending on the rider and machine. lets explain what some people do--but keep in mind, other riders might be lifting it up differently.
"There are two kinds of wheelies: power wheelies and clutched wheelies. A power wheelie uses the bike's motor to get the front wheel up. You get the revs up near the bike's torque peak and goose the throttle to snap the front end up. On a 1000cc bike this is easy--just snap the throttle at around 6000 rpm and it wheelies. A smaller bike such as a 600 needs a little help. On these, we have to roll the rpm up higher, then chop the gas and snap it on again. Chopping the throttle will cause the front end to dive for an instant, and the rebounding of the fork will help the front end come up when you snap the throttle back on. On a 600, you almost have to open the throttle all the way to the stop to get the front end up under power. A literbike takes much less throttle see on the pic below(where mono has posted the pic) and you'll be on your ass instantly. That's why people don't like power wheelies--you're dealing with a lot of power, and the possibility of looping the bike is greater.
"Most of the people prefer clutched wheelies; the front comes up quicker and you're lower in the rev range when you bring the front end up, so you're not going as fast and you've got more time to find the balance point before you hit the rev limiter. For a clutched wheelie, pull the clutch in, just enough to cause the rpm to rise up to the torque peak, and then let it out quickly. I'm pulling the clutch in just slightly, just into the friction zone. The revs rise for a split second, and then I drop the clutch--don't ease it out--and back off the throttle incrementally as the front end comes up. The higher the front wheel goes the less throttle is needed to keep it up. Backing off keeps the bike from going over.
"Either way, on power or with the clutch, keep arms stiff, squeeze the tank with legs and always cover the rear brake. If things get ugly, you just tap the rear brake and both wheels are back on the ground. If you're looking straight ahead, when you can't see over the bike you know you're getting close to the balance point."
Standup
"Same as a sit-down, you can do this one either on power or on the clutch.Bounce the bike a bit to help it up. Bouncing down on the handlebars preloads the front suspension. The energy of the fork releasing, combined with the throttle input, pops the wheel up.Stand up first, then lean forward and bounce it by pushing down on my arms, causing the fork to compress. When the fork comes back up on the gas (not as much as a sit down--standups take less power to lift up!) and pulling on the handlebars to bring the bike up.
"As the front wheel comes up, drop your butt back a little bit to help it along.Bend your knees when pulling the bike up, and once it gets up to about 10 o'clock straighten your legs and lean back. With a standup you can hold the throttle in one spot and use your body language to control the wheelie.
"Because body language makes it so easy to balance a standup, it's easy to ride one through the gears. To shift during a wheelie, blip the throttle just a touch right before the shift. When you fan the clutch to shift, it kills power to the wheelie, and if you don't blip the throttle a touch this can cause you to drop the front wheel. So blip it, causing the front wheel to float a bit higher for a split second, then shift as quickly as possible. Preloading the shifter and just nudging the clutch lever will help you shift faster.Generally shift as early as possible. If you shift when you're hard on the gas or your revs are up, you're more likely to miss the shift. The sooner you shift, the less likely you are to miss the gear. But not too soon, so you don't bog the revs! Incidentally, these shifting rules are the same for a sit-down wheelie."
Can Can
"To do a Can Can, start just like you would [with] a regular standup wheelie, and as soon as you get the wheelie to where you're comfortable, take your right leg off and stick it between the tank and your left leg. You have to be careful getting your foot through there. There's not much room between your leg and the tank, so you have to know where you're going without looking and get it through there quickly.
"During a Can Can most of your body weight is to the left side of the bike, so you need to counterweight yourself by rocking your shoulders over to the right side of the bike. It's all about keeping your balance centered. Whenever you keep moving around, make sure to do it slowly, so can feel which way it's going to go. Moving around really fast will cause the bike to get out of control.
"If you ever do get out of control, or to where you feel like you are making a mistake, just let off the gas or tap the rear brake and put the front down--it doesn't really matter where you're standing on the bike, once both wheels are on the ground you're safe."
Frog
"Frog wheelies are a lot like High Chairs-- get up on the tank first, then clutch it up. Just like the High Chair, you have to be smooth pulling it up because you've still got all your weight over the front. Plus, you don't really have anything to hold onto, so when you drop the clutch your body weight wants to go backward. That's going to make you wanna hold onto the bars even more tightly, which can cause you to twist the throttle more than you should. So to avoid unwanted throttle inputs, you have to grip tighter with your left arm than your right.
"The hardest part with a Frog wheelie is putting it down. When you set the wheel down it throws all your weight forward, and when you're standing up on the tank and just holding on to the handlebars, there's not much to keep you from just flipping over the front. Not for amateurs, this trick."
12 O'Clock
"A 12 O'clock is all about brake control. You bring it up in first gear, and you have to get on the gas really hard to get the wheel up as high as you can, and then use your rear brake to stop the bike at 12 o'clock. Once you get it up, instead of using the throttle to control the height of [the] front wheel, you're actually using the rear brake. You're on the gas more than normal, and using the brake to keep from going over.
"Twelves require a lot of body language, using your shoulders to rock the bike from side to side to keep it from tipping over sideways. Use your knees and legs like outriggers to balance the bike, and mostly hold yourself on with your arms.
"On the scrape, a lot of people think you just fall back and ride the bar, but the bike still wants to sway from side to side. If you want to 'park' a 12 O'clock, you use the rear brake to slow down--but not too much. If you use too much, it's just going to cause the bike to fall down."
Circle
"Circles and other slow wheelies are the hardest to learn. These are all about trusting your tires and getting into a groove. Once you get into a groove, it's all brake and throttle control.
"There are three different ways to do Circles. Some guys ride on the regular pegs; some with the left foot on the left passenger peg; or some with the left foot on the 12 bar. You can use your body weight more to control the height of the tire.
"To initiate a Circle clutch it up with feet already in position, bringing it up like a 12 O'clock, using the rear brake. For Circles (and No-Handers, too) turn the idle up to 3500 rpm, so don't really have to worry about the gas. But with the idle up that high, and your bike so high, if you don't use the rear brake you'll loop out.
"Once you get the bike up there, you initiate the turn by bending the inside knee and shifting body weight into the wheelie. You want to keep looking into the wheelie because you go where you look. You keep it going by blipping the throttle and tapping the brake. The gas makes it run wide and the brake tightens the Circle up--the same concepts as with cornering on a roadracing track."
No-Footer
Once you start doing rolling endos, a no-footer is probably the easiest variation to pull off. This is basically the same thing as a regular endo, but your arms support all your weight--your feet aren't on the pegs and you can't grab the gas tank with your knees. You're basically sitting on the gas tank, so your body has to be up against it right from the get-go.
Practice these by doing regular endos and bending your knees to gradually unweight your feet and legs--the best way to tell if you're ready to bring your feet off the pegs is if your upper body is right and everything else is square. Because you don't have to worry about the handlebars moving when you bring your feet off the pegs, a no-footer is much easier than a one-hander, and you can bring your feet off a lot sooner than your hand. Just remember not to kick your feet off before you're up against the gas tank or you'll slam your junk against it and wreck yourself.
STUNTER'S DICTIONARY !!!